At a Glance
- A knitting chart is a grid where each square represents a stitch and each row of squares represents a row: it is always read from the bottom up.
- There is no universal symbol system: the key provided with each chart is the only reliable reference, although some symbols (black dot for knit, empty square for purl, circle for yarn over) appear frequently.
- The reading direction changes depending on the row when knitting flat (alternating right-to-left and left-to-right), but remains always the same when knitting in the round.
- A written pattern uses abbreviations (k, p, yo, k2tog) and asterisks to indicate a repeat, just as a colored box does on a chart.
- Identifying the key, the reading direction, and the stitch repeat before you start helps avoid almost all alignment errors in a pattern.
Are you looking at a chart filled with tiny squares, dots, and diagonal lines and have no idea where to begin? A knitting chart is simply a visual blueprint: each square corresponds to a specific stitch, each row of squares to a row of knitting, and the whole thing is read according to a few fixed rules. The difficulty rarely comes from the grid itself, but from the fact that symbols aren’t universal—a circle might mean a yarn over for one designer and a slipped stitch for another. This article explains how charts are constructed, how to read them whether you are knitting flat or in the round, the most common symbols, how to handle written patterns and their abbreviations, and a method for tackling any new chart without losing your place mid-row.
Charts vs. Written Patterns: Two Languages for the Same Instruction
The same stitch can be communicated in two ways: via a chart (also called a diagram or grid) which visually represents each stitch as a square, or via written instructions that describe the same action row by row, using full words or abbreviations. Both methods convey the exact same information; they simply appeal to different ways of processing information.
The advantage of a chart is that it shows the pattern at a glance: decreases, twists, or yarn overs form a recognizable image that helps you spot a mistake immediately if your work doesn’t visually match the expected square. Written patterns, conversely, are followed line by line without an overall view, but they save you from having to memorize a symbol key—a real advantage for simple stitches. Most sophisticated patterns (cables, lace, Fair Isle) now provide both versions side-by-side because some knitters think better in images and others in text.
How a Knitting Chart is Structured
One Square, One Stitch — One Line, One Row
The basic principle never varies from one chart to another: one square represents one stitch, and one horizontal line of squares represents one row. The chart therefore reproduces, on a flat surface, the exact arrangement of stitches as they will appear on the finished piece—this allows you to “see” the pattern before you’ve even knitted it.
Row 1 is Always at the Bottom Right
A chart is read from the bottom up, never the reverse: the first row knitted corresponds to the first line of squares at the bottom of the chart, and each subsequent line stacks on top as the project progresses. Row 1 almost always has its number in the bottom right corner of the grid, providing a fixed reference point to orient yourself before you start decoding the symbols.
Numbered Edges Indicate the Direction of Each Row
On most charts, row numbers are printed alternately on the right and left of the grid: a number on the right indicates a row that is read from right to left, and a number on the left indicates a row read from left to right. This detail, often overlooked at first, prevents you from having to guess the direction at the start of every new row.
Reading Direction: The Golden Rule
Knitting Flat: Alternating Every Row
When knitting flat—using two needles and working back and forth—the chart is read alternatively in one direction and then the other, exactly as the knitting itself changes direction every row. Odd rows (1, 3, 5…), which correspond to the Right Side (RS) of the work, are read from right to left. Even rows (2, 4, 6…), which correspond to the return on the Wrong Side (WS), are read from left to right. This alternation simply follows the natural movement of the needles: you never start a row on the same side as the previous one.
Knitting in the Round: Always the Same Direction
When knitting in the round—using circular needles or double-pointed needles (DPNs), for a hat or a sock, for example—there is no back-and-forth: every round is worked on the right side of the fabric. The chart is therefore always read from right to left, round after round, without ever changing direction. This is a welcome simplification once identified, but it often surprises knitters used to knitting flat who instinctively apply the right-to-left/left-to-right alternation to a project that doesn’t need it.
How to Verify You Are Reading in the Right Direction
The most reliable guide remains the position of the row number: if it is to the right of the line of squares, the row is read from right to left; if it is to the left, it is read from left to right. If you are in doubt in the middle of a complex pattern, returning to the current row number is almost always enough to confirm or correct the reading direction, rather than relying solely on habit.
The Key: Your Essential Guide
No symbol system is universally standardized in knitting. A filled square, a circle, a diagonal line, or a letter can represent different stitches depending on the yarn brand, website, or pattern book. This is why the key attached to each chart is never optional: it is the only reliable source for knowing what each symbol actually represents in that specific pattern, even for an experienced knitter who knows the most common conventions by heart.
The Most Frequently Encountered Symbols
However, some conventions appear regularly across patterns and can serve as a starting point, provided you always confirm them with the current pattern’s key:
- Empty square or solid black dot — usually a knit stitch, the most frequent symbol in all charts.
- White square with a horizontal dash — usually a purl stitch.
- Small circle — most often a yarn over (yo), which is an extra loop of yarn that creates a decorative hole.
- Single diagonal line, leaning right or left — a simple decrease (two stitches knitted together), with the slope of the line indicating which way the decrease leans visually on the finished piece.
- Chevron formed by two diagonal lines — a double decrease, which reduces three stitches to one.
These five symbols cover a large portion of simple charts, but lace or cable patterns often add specific symbols (crossed stitches, slipped stitches, multiple increases) unique to that design: it is better to take thirty seconds to scan the entire key before starting than to guess mid-row.
Identifying the Stitch Repeat: The Repeating Part of the Pattern
A pattern knitted across the entire width of a project is almost never drawn in full on the grid: only a portion, called the stitch repeat (or “pattern repeat”), is shown, usually framed by a distinct color, a thicker line, or a gray background. This section is repeated as many times as necessary to cover the total width of the row, before resuming the edge stitches located outside the frame, which are not repeated.
In a written pattern, the same principle is expressed through asterisks or brackets: an instruction such as “* k2, yo, k2tog * repeat from * to * until the end of the row” indicates exactly the same thing as a colored box on a chart—the part between the two asterisks is knitted in a loop. Identifying this frame or these asterisks before counting your stitches prevents the most common mistake in repetitive patterns: knitting the repeat one too many or one too few times, which shifts the rest of the row.
Reading Written Patterns: Essential Abbreviations
English written patterns use a set of abbreviations that recur from one model to another, although most designers or brands provide a complete list at the beginning of the pattern:
- k — knit stitch
- p — purl stitch
- yo — yarn over (extra loop creating a stitch and a small hole)
- k2tog — knit two together (decrease)
- ssk — slip, slip, knit (decrease)
To these basic abbreviations are added repetition instructions (“rep”) and row markers (“row”), as well as size notations when the pattern covers multiple measurements at once.
Multi-Size Patterns: Understanding Parentheses
Many patterns provide several sizes in a single instruction, separated by parentheses: a note like “cast on 80 (88, 96, 104) stitches” means the first number corresponds to the smallest size offered, and each number in parentheses corresponds to the subsequent sizes in increasing order. The golden rule for multi-size projects is simple: highlight or circle your size throughout the entire pattern before knitting the first row. Otherwise, it is easy to mix up two different numbers mid-row, especially in designs that alternate dozens of values between sleeves, body, and neckline.
Common Mistakes That Make You Lose Your Place
Some errors occur more often than others when facing an unfamiliar grid:
- Reading all rows in the same direction, forgetting the alternation inherent to knitting flat—the most common mistake for those used to knitting in the round, or vice versa.
- Ignoring the pattern-specific key and relying solely on symbols known from another pattern, when a circle might mean a yarn over in one design and a slipped stitch in another.
- Losing count of the stitch repeat by knitting the repeated frame an incorrect number of times, which progressively shifts the entire pattern on subsequent rows.
- Confusing the row number with the line number shown on a screen or a cropped print, particularly on very tall grids where not all lines fit on one page.
- Not marking your position with a physical marker (paperclip, bookmark, ruler) when interrupting your work, which forces you to recount the entire chart from the beginning when you resume.
A 5-Step Method for Stress-Free Chart Reading
When faced with an unknown grid, following a fixed order avoids most of the errors listed above:
- Locate Row 1 in the bottom right corner and check if it corresponds to a knit or purl row based on the project type (flat or round).
- Read the entire key before knitting the first stitch, even for symbols that seem familiar.
- Identify the stitch repeat, framed or colored, and count how many stitches it occupies to ensure it repeats a whole number of times across the row width.
- Verify the reading direction of each row using the position of the numbers, rather than assuming an automatic alternation.
- Place a physical marker (stitch marker, moving paperclip, magnetic ruler) to instantly find your position after a break.
This method only takes a few minutes before starting, but it often saves you from having to rip back several rows to correct a misalignment discovered too late.
Conclusion
A knitting chart isn’t a secret code reserved for experts: it’s a visual plan that follows fixed rules, once Row 1 is located, the reading direction verified, and the key fully consulted. Taking these few minutes of preparation before the first stitch, rather than proceeding by guesswork, is the safest way to follow a chart to the end without having to rip out an entire section of your work.
Sources: The principles of construction and reading direction for knitting charts described in this article were verified with Les Triconautes, Laines Plassard and Garnstudio.
FAQ
How do I know if a row is read from right to left or left to right?
The row number gives the answer: if it is placed to the right of the line of squares, the row is read from right to left; if it is placed to the left, it is read from left to right. When knitting flat, this direction alternates every row; when knitting in the round, it always stays right to left.
Why aren’t symbols the same from one pattern to another?
There is no single, mandatory standard for knitting charts: every designer, brand, or website can choose their own graphic conventions. This is why the key always accompanies every chart and must be consulted for every new model, even by experienced knitters.
What is a “stitch repeat” on a grid?
It is the portion of the pattern, usually framed or highlighted, that is knitted in a loop across the entire width of the row. Stitches located outside this frame are edge stitches that are not repeated and are knitted only once per row.
Is a chart more reliable than a written pattern?
Neither is “more” reliable: both convey the same information in two different forms. The chart shows the pattern at a glance and helps you spot errors visually, while the written pattern is followed row by row without requiring the memorization of a symbol key.
How do I read the numbers in parentheses in a multi-size pattern?
The first number corresponds to the smallest size in the pattern, and each value in parentheses corresponds to the subsequent sizes in increasing order. Circling your own size throughout the document before starting prevents you from mixing up two different values while knitting.
What does a circle on a knitting chart mean?
Most often, a small circle represents a yarn over—an extra loop of yarn around the needle that creates both a stitch and a small decorative hole. This convention is frequent, but it should always be confirmed by the model’s specific key, as a circle can occasionally mean something else.
What should I do if I lose my place in the middle of a complex chart?
Go back to the last marker you placed (stitch marker or paperclip) rather than guessing, then recount the stitches of the current row, comparing them one by one to the squares on the grid. For patterns with a stitch repeat, check specifically that the number of repeats already knitted matches the planned total width before continuing.
Do I need to learn charts if I prefer written patterns?
It’s not indispensable if you only follow patterns that offer both versions, but knowing how to read a grid is useful whenever a complex pattern (cables, lace, Fair Isle) is only available as a chart, which is common for more elaborate designs.
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