At a Glance
- Stockinette stitch is created by alternating one row of knit stitches and one row of purl stitches. It is this alternation, rather than a single stitch, that distinguishes it from garter stitch.
- The knit side of stockinette features smooth, small “V” shapes on its main face; the purl side shows raised bumps. These are actually the same fabric viewed from opposite sides.
- Seed stitch (or moss stitch) alternates knit and purl stitches within every stitch and every row, creating a pebbled texture that, unlike stockinette, does not curl.
- Stockinette tends to curl at the edges due to the tension imbalance between knit stitches and purl stitches; a border in garter stitch or ribbing is usually enough to fix this.
- When knitting in the round with circular needles, stockinette is simplified: you simply knit every stitch in every round, without ever purling.
Do you want to know how to knit the stockinette stitch, or are you confusing the “knit” and “purl” sides of this fabric? Here is the direct answer: when knitting flat, stockinette is built by alternating one full row of knit stitches, followed by one full row of purl stitches, and so on until the project is complete. The side with the neatly aligned small “V”s is the knit side; the side with the bumps is the purl side—they are two sides of the same fabric, not two different stitches. This alternating mechanism, while simple in theory, often causes two common hurdles for beginners: knowing which side they are looking at to determine the next move, and understanding why the edges of the knitting tend to curl.
This article details the basic knit and purl movements, the seed stitch variant and how it differs from stockinette, the reason for curling and how to prevent it, the technique for knitting stockinette in the round, and a direct comparison with garter stitch.
Stockinette Stitch: An Alternation of Two Movements
Stockinette stitch relies on two distinct movements, repeated in alternation on each row. On the first row, you knit all the stitches: the right needle pierces the loop from the front, the yarn wraps around the tip, and the loop is pulled through to form the new stitch. On the following row, after turning the work, you purl all the stitches: the needle pierces from the back, in the opposite direction, and the yarn stays in front of the work rather than behind.
This strict alternation—one knit row, one purl row, one knit row—is what defines stockinette. Forgetting to switch or accidentally knitting two knit rows in a row immediately breaks the regular pattern of small “V”s, leaving a visible horizontal line—a sign that a purl row was mistakenly knitted (or vice versa).
Stockinette is the most common stitch found in patterns for clothing, sweaters, cardigans, and accessories because it produces a thin, flexible, and smooth fabric that looks much closer to “store-bought” knitwear than the more textured and thicker garter stitch. It is also one of the most yarn-efficient stitches, as it doesn’t compress the rows as much as textured stitches like garter or seed stitch.
Knit Side vs. Purl Side: Two Faces, One Stitch
The confusion between “stockinette knit” and “stockinette purl” comes from a frequent misunderstanding: they are not two different stitches, but the two sides of the same fabric.
The knit side (often called the “right side” or RS) is the face of the knitting that shows regular columns of smooth, small “V”s, which may appear slightly shiny depending on the yarn used. This is the side usually placed on the outside of a garment, such as the front of a sweater. To obtain a project that starts on the knit side, the first row knitted must be a row of knit stitches.
The purl side (often called the “wrong side” or WS), conversely, is the face that shows raised bumps, which are more matte and textured. Some designs intentionally use this side as the visible face—this is an aesthetic choice used for specific panels or relief patterns. In this case, the first row knitted is a row of purl stitches, which simply flips which side ends up on the outside.
In both cases, the technique remains identical: an alternation of a knit row and a purl row. Only the starting row changes which face is visible at the end. A useful tip to keep from getting lost: if you see “V”s, you have just finished a knit row and the next will be a purl row; if you see bumps, it’s the opposite.
Regardless of the side, stockinette is not reversible: unlike garter stitch, its two faces are distinctly different, meaning you must always check which side of the fabric should remain visible before choosing your starting row.
Seed Stitch: The Non-Curling Variant
Seed stitch (also known as moss stitch) is often used alongside stockinette as a textured alternative that solves its main flaw: curling edges.
Technically, seed stitch alternates one knit stitch and one purl stitch within the same row, then reverses this alternation on the following row so that a knit stitch always sits atop a purl stitch and vice versa. This constant crossing of the two stitch types creates a dense, grainy fabric that resembles tiny aligned pearls—hence its name. Unlike stockinette, seed stitch is nearly reversible and, most importantly, it does not curl at the edges. This makes it a popular choice for scarves, borders, or entire projects intended to lie flat without additional finishing.
The trade-off with seed stitch is yarn consumption: the density created by the crossing of knit and purl stitches requires more yarn than classic stockinette or simple 1x1 ribbing, resulting in a thicker fabric that takes slightly longer to knit. Keep this in mind before converting a stockinette pattern to seed stitch, as you risk running out of skeins.
Between stockinette and seed stitch, the choice depends on the intended use: stockinette is best for a soft drape and a classic garment look, while seed stitch is the go-to for avoiding curling without adding a separate border, or for achieving a more pronounced textured effect.
Why Stockinette Curls and How to Stop It
Curling edges are perhaps the most common complaint about stockinette stitch, and there is a precise mechanical explanation: knit and purl stitches do not have the exact same tension or shape. The knit stitch is slightly shorter and tighter than the purl stitch, which is more stretched. This imbalance between the two types of stitches creates different tensions on each side of the fabric, pushing the side edges to roll inward toward the purl side.
This phenomenon is not a mistake in your technique; it is inherent to the structure of the stockinette stitch and affects all projects made this way, regardless of the yarn or the knitter’s tension. However, several solutions can limit or completely correct this effect.
The most common method is to add a border in a stable stitch on the sides and potentially at the top and bottom: a few stitches of garter stitch or 1x1 or 2x2 ribbing are sufficient. Because these stitches are denser and balanced between knit and purl, they do not curl and mechanically stabilize the central stockinette section. This is the easiest solution to integrate into a pattern.
Another more technical method is to create a deliberate rolled hem: knit about 1/2 to 5/8 inch in purl side stockinette, mark the fold with a row of purl stitches on the knit side, then knit another 1/2 to 5/8 inch in classic stockinette before folding the edge inward and sewing it. This technique turns the curling into a purposeful finishing detail rather than a flaw to be corrected (Papote et Pelote — why a border curls).
Finally, for a project made entirely in stockinette without a different border, some knitters simply sew the project along its entire height (for example, for a cushion or a lined throw), which mechanically neutralizes the curling by fixing the edges.
Knitting Stockinette in the Round with Circular Needles
Knitting in the round changes one essential factor compared to knitting flat: instead of turning the work every row to alternate knit and purl, you knit in a continuous spiral, always keeping the same face of the fabric turned toward you.
This difference radically simplifies stockinette in the round: since the knit side of the fabric is constantly facing the knitter, you simply knit every stitch in every round to obtain stockinette. There is no need to alternate with purl rounds, which is what would be required to get garter stitch in the round.
This point is important to remember: it is the exact opposite of the rule for circular garter stitch, where you must alternate one knit round and one purl round. Confusing these two rules is a common mistake for knitters discovering circular knitting after learning these two stitches flat.
A stitch marker placed at the very beginning of the first round is indispensable for easily identifying the start and end of each round, facilitating row counting, and avoiding losing track of progress on large projects like a sweater or a hat knit in one piece. Circular needles also offer an additional advantage for stockinette in the round: they reduce the risk of visible seams that can appear with double-pointed needles during needle changes (Woolschool — circular needle knitting).
Before joining the first round, it is essential to check that the cast-on row is not twisted on the circular needle cable: a single twisted stitch at this stage is enough to make the entire project spiral out of shape.
Stockinette vs. Garter Stitch: What is the Actual Difference?
Garter stitch and stockinette stitch are often confused by beginners, but the distinction comes down to one simple rule: garter stitch requires only knit stitches on every row (when knitting flat), while stockinette requires alternating one knit row and one purl row.
This difference in construction has several visible consequences. Stockinette produces a thin fabric with two distinct sides (“V”s on one side, bumps on the other), while garter stitch produces a thicker, reversible fabric where both sides are identical. Stockinette tends to curl at the edges, as detailed above, while garter stitch remains flat without any additional border. Finally, stockinette generally uses less yarn than garter stitch for the same surface area, as the latter is denser and consumes more yarn at the same height (Les Triconautes — complete stockinette guide).
In practice, these two stitches are often combined in the same project: a main body in stockinette for a thin and flexible feel, paired with a garter stitch border to stabilize the edges without needing extra sewing. This is one of the most common combinations in beginner sweater and cardigan patterns.
Which Project Should You Choose to Practice Stockinette?
Stockinette stitch requires a bit more vigilance than garter stitch, as you must track the row alternation and recognize which side you are working on. Three types of projects allow you to practice effectively without getting discouraged.
A simple stockinette scarf, bordered with a few garter stitches on each side, allows you to practice the knit/purl alternation over many rows while observing the stabilizing effect of the border. A square for a patchwork blanket provides a short format to multiply your attempts and quickly correct alternation errors. Finally, a hat knitted in the round allows you to jump straight to the circular version of stockinette—the simplest of the two, as it requires only knit stitches—before returning to flat knitting and its row alternation once that logic is mastered.
Once stockinette is mastered in both configurations, the natural next step is to explore seed stitch for non-curling borders or to combine stockinette and ribbing for more structured projects like sweaters or cardigans.
FAQ
How do I knit the stockinette stitch?
You must alternate one row of knit stitches and one row of purl stitches, starting with a knit row. The side featuring regular small “V”s is the knit side; this is generally the side that remains visible on the outside of the project.
What is the difference between the knit side and the purl side of stockinette?
They are the two sides of the same fabric, not two different stitches. The knit side shows smooth “V”s, and the purl side shows raised bumps. The starting row (knit or purl) simply determines which side ends up visible at the end.
What is seed stitch and how does it differ from stockinette?
Seed stitch alternates one knit stitch and one purl stitch in every row, with the alternation reversed on the following row. Unlike stockinette, it does not curl at the edges and provides a more textured, grainy look, though it consumes more yarn.
Why does stockinette stitch curl at the edges?
Knit and purl stitches have different tensions and shapes, creating a mechanical imbalance that pushes the edges to roll inward. This is an inherent characteristic of the stitch, not a mistake in execution.
How can I prevent stockinette from curling?
The simplest solution is to add a border in garter stitch or ribbing on the sides of the project, as these stitches are more stable and do not curl. A deliberate rolled hem, sewn after a few centimeters of purl-side stockinette, is another finishing option.
How do I knit stockinette in the round with circular needles?
Simply knit every stitch in every round, without alternating with purl stitches, because the knit side of the fabric always faces the knitter in circular knitting. This is the opposite of the rule applied for garter stitch in the round.
What is the difference between stockinette stitch and garter stitch?
Stockinette alternates knit and purl rows, results in two different faces, and curls at the edges. Garter stitch uses only knit stitches (when flat), results in a reversible fabric, and remains flat without a border.
Once the row alternation is well understood, stockinette remains one of the most versatile stitches in knitting: a thin and flexible fabric, two usable faces depending on the desired effect, and a circular technique that is even simpler than the flat version. The only points of vigilance are the curling of the edges, which is easily corrected with a suitable border, and the potential confusion with garter stitch, whose logic is completely inverted in circular knitting.
Sources: Bergère de France — point de jersey endroit, Les Triconautes — guide complet point jersey, Papote et Pelote — pourquoi une bordure roulotte, Woolschool — tricot aiguilles circulaires
See Also
