In Brief
- Garter stitch is created by knitting only knit stitches, row after row, without ever using a purl stitch when knitting flat—making it the simplest stitch to learn.
- Unlike stockinette, garter stitch is reversible (both sides look the same) and does not curl at the edges, which is why it’s the go-to for borders and first-time projects.
- When knitting in the round, the logic changes: you must alternate one knit round and one purl round; otherwise, you’ll end up with stockinette—a common pitfall for beginners.
- In English patterns, this is called garter stitch; knowing this term prevents translation errors when following international patterns.
- Denser than stockinette, garter stitch uses more yarn and can be made even more stable by using twisted stitches (knit through the back loop).
Are you wondering how to knit the garter stitch, or if you need to purl to achieve it? Here is the direct answer: no, when knitting flat, garter stitch requires only one movement—the knit stitch, repeated on every single row, without exception. This lack of alternation is exactly what makes it the easiest stitch to learn and the starting point for almost every beginner. Difficulty only arises in two specific cases: knitting in the round with circular needles, where the logic flips, and when reading English patterns, where the terminology changes completely.
This article details the basic movement, the concrete differences from stockinette stitch, the specific technique for circular garter stitch, English terminology, and how to make your fabric more stable so it survives repeated washes without losing its shape.
Garter Stitch: One Single Movement
Garter stitch relies on a single motion: the stitch is knit on every stitch of every row, from start to finish. Practically, you insert the right needle into the stitch on the left from the front, wrap the yarn around the needle tip, and pull that loop through to form the new stitch. No purling is involved at any point when knitting flat in back-and-forth rows.
This simplicity is a game-changer for beginners. With stockinette, you must constantly distinguish between the right side (RS) and wrong side (WS) of the fabric to know which stitch to perform. With garter stitch, that question never arises: you repeat the same action, in the same direction, regardless of the row. This is why it’s consistently recommended for beginner knitting projects, whether it’s a scarf, a washcloth, or a baby blanket.
Visually, garter stitch is recognized by its horizontal ridges, which feel slightly bumpy to the touch—very different from the smooth, aligned “V” shapes of stockinette. This ridged texture isn’t a flaw; it gives the knitting a cozy, thick appearance, making it perfect for warm accessories like scarves or blankets.
Garter Stitch vs. Stockinette: The Key Differences
Confusion between garter stitch and stockinette is one of the most common hurdles for beginners, but the distinction comes down to one simple rule.
Stockinette stitch is achieved by alternating one knit row and one purl row. This creates a smooth “V” side (the right side) and a bumpy, looped side (the wrong side). Stockinette also has a well-known quirk: its edges tend to curl, often requiring a border in a different stitch to keep the piece flat.
Garter stitch, however, is achieved by knitting every stitch on every row. The result is a fabric where both sides are identical, making it reversible and allowing it to lie flat without curling. This property is why many patterns use a few garter stitches as a border for a piece primarily knit in stockinette—a few garter stitches on the edges are enough to prevent the central stockinette from rolling.
Another concrete difference is the amount of yarn required. Garter stitch is denser and thicker than stockinette, which increases yarn consumption for the same surface area. While estimates vary depending on the yarn used, the difference is significant: some technical guides suggest that garter stitch can use up to 50% more yarn than stockinette for the same model (Synonyme du mot). Keep this in mind before buying your skeins if you’re adapting a stockinette pattern to garter stitch.
Finally, the height per square inch differs: garter stitch “compresses” the rows more than stockinette, meaning the same number of rows will result in a shorter piece. This is why it’s always best to knit a gauge swatch before relying on the row counts of a pattern designed for a different stitch.
“Knit or Purl” Garter Stitch: Clearing Up the Confusion
The question “do I knit or purl for garter stitch?” comes up often. It stems from a legitimate question: does garter stitch involve purling?
When knitting flat, the answer is no: you only knit. You knit the stitches on the right side and you knit the stitches on the wrong side. In other words, even when you turn your work to start the next row, you continue to knit—never purl. This is precisely what separates garter stitch from stockinette, where alternating knit and purl is mandatory.
The confusion often comes from poorly worded tutorials that explain that a “wrong side row” (meaning the side you see after turning the work) is still a row of knit stitches in garter stitch. In this context, “wrong side” refers to the position of the fabric, not the type of stitch. Once this nuance is understood, the technique itself is effortless.
The only exception to the “all knit” rule is knitting in the round with circular needles, where the logic reverses—which we will cover in the next section.
Knitting Garter Stitch in the Round Without Mistakes
Knitting in the round with circular needles changes one essential factor: instead of going back and forth by turning the work, you knit in a continuous spiral, always working on the “right side” of the fabric facing you.
This has a direct impact on garter stitch: if you continue to knit every stitch on every round (as you would when knitting flat), you will not get garter stitch—you will get stockinette, because the right side of the fabric is always facing you. To achieve a true garter stitch in the round, you must alternate one round of knit stitches and one round of purl stitches, which is the exact opposite of the rule for flat knitting.
This shift in logic frequently confuses beginners moving from flat to circular knitting.
Circular garter stitch also has a technical peculiarity: a slight line or “jog” may appear at the junction of each round, exactly where you switch from a knit round to a purl round. This visible line is well-known to experienced knitters. Several methods can soften it: tightening the yarn slightly at the start of each round, or slipping the first stitch of the round without knitting it before continuing the sequence, which helps align the first and last stitches of each round (Knit Spirit).
Before joining your first round on circular needles, it is essential to ensure that the cast-on stitches are not twisted on the cable: a single twisted stitch at this stage can cause the entire project to spiral and deform.
Garter Stitch in English: Terms to Know
Many high-quality tutorials, premium patterns, and luxury yarns come from English-speaking sources, making English terminology essential for any knitter looking to expand their horizons.
In English, point mousse is called garter stitch. The principle remains the same: knit every stitch of every row to create a reversible, non-curling fabric. This term appears in almost every English pattern whenever a border or a full section in garter stitch is required. Recognizing it prevents the common mistake of accidentally knitting stockinette.
Two other English terms appear frequently: “knit” (K), which is the knit stitch, and “purl” (P), which is the purl stitch. In a flat garter stitch pattern, you should only see the abbreviation “K” row after row—the presence of “P” in flat instructions usually signals a different stitch, like stockinette or a textured variation.
For beginners starting to read English patterns, keeping a translation glossary handy during the first few attempts helps avoid the most common terminology errors.
Making Your Garter Stitch Even More Stable
Garter stitch is naturally stable: it lies flat, doesn’t curl, and resists deformation due to its dense structure. However, some knitters want to further reinforce this stability, especially for items subject to frequent washing, such as baby accessories or everyday clothing.
The most recommended technique for an even more stable garter stitch is to use twisted stitches (knit through the back loop) instead of standard stitches: you insert the needle into the back loop of the stitch instead of the front loop. This slightly twists each stitch. The resulting fabric is firmer, denser, and holds its shape better after multiple wash cycles (Aurasublime).
This variation takes a bit more time and results in a slightly stiffer feel, making it ideal for pieces that must maintain a precise shape (such as structured borders or panels) rather than projects requiring a soft drape, like a classic scarf.
Using garter stitch for borders also remains one of the best solutions for stabilizing stockinette: a few garter stitches on each side of a stockinette panel are enough to prevent the characteristic curling without altering the overall look of the garment.
How Much Yarn Do You Need for Garter Stitch?
As mentioned earlier, garter stitch consumes more yarn than stockinette for the same surface area due to its higher density. Before buying your yarn, it is better to rely on the yardage/meterage indicated on the label rather than the total weight, and to allow for an extra margin if you are adapting a stockinette pattern to garter stitch.
Knitting a 4“ x 4“ (10 x 10 cm) gauge swatch with the actual yarn and needles you plan to use is the most reliable way to estimate the amount of yarn needed for a project. This step, often skipped by eager beginners, prevents unpleasant surprises halfway through a large project like a throw blanket or a full sweater.
Garter Stitch: The Ideal First Step into Knitting
For a beginner, garter stitch ticks all the boxes for a successful first experience: only one movement to memorize, no need to track the right or wrong side of the fabric, and a visually consistent result that provides immediate satisfaction.
Three projects are particularly well-suited for a first attempt at garter stitch. A simple scarf allows for plenty of practice with the same movement without the need for complex sewing or shaping. A square, perhaps for a patchwork blanket, offers a quick and motivating result. Finally, a baby blanket or booties are classics for beginners due to their small size and the natural softness of garter stitch, which is gentle on a newborn’s skin.
Once you have mastered this stitch, the next logical step is to learn the purl stitch to tackle stockinette, and then move on to circular knitting, keeping in mind the logic reversal for garter stitch in that context.
FAQ
Does garter stitch require purl stitches?
No, when knitting flat. Garter stitch is achieved using only knit stitches on every row. Alternating knit and purl is only necessary when knitting garter stitch in the round.
What is the difference between garter stitch and stockinette stitch?
Garter stitch consists only of knit stitches and creates a reversible fabric that does not curl. Stockinette alternates one knit row and one purl row, resulting in two different sides (one smooth, one bumpy) and edges that tend to curl.
How do I knit garter stitch in the round without it turning into stockinette?
You must alternate one round of knit stitches and one round of purl stitches. Knitting only knit stitches on every round in circular knitting actually produces stockinette, because the right side of the fabric is always facing you.
What is garter stitch called in English?
It is called “garter stitch.” In an English pattern for flat knitting, the instructions will only mention the abbreviation “K” (knit) and will not include “P” (purl).
Does garter stitch use more yarn than stockinette?
Yes, because it is denser. The difference varies by yarn, but it can require significantly more yarn for the same size project; it is best to check the yardage on the label and knit a gauge swatch.
How can I make garter stitch more stable?
By knitting “twisted stitches” (knitting through the back loop) instead of standard stitches. The resulting fabric is firmer and holds its shape better after washing, though it is slightly stiffer.
Why is there a visible line when knitting garter stitch in the round?
This small line (or jog) appears at the transition between the knit round and the purl round. Tightening the yarn at this point or slipping the first stitch of the round can help minimize it.
Which project is best for learning garter stitch?
A simple scarf, a square for a patchwork blanket, or a baby blanket are the most recommended: none require complex shaping, and all showcase the beautiful texture of garter stitch.
Garter stitch is, step by step, the most accessible stitch in knitting: one stitch to repeat, no sides to distinguish when flat, and a fabric that stays flat. The only things to watch for are circular knitting, where the rule reverses, and English patterns, where the name changes but the technique remains the same.
Sources: Les Triconautes — point mousse, Knit Spirit — tricoter en rond, Synonyme du mot — consommation de laine, Aurasublime — point mousse indéformable
See also
