Definition
A selvage (or edge stitch) is a stitch placed at the beginning and end of each row to create a clean, regular edge that is easy to work with on the sides of the fabric. It acts as a finishing margin that simplifies subsequent steps (such as picking up stitches or seaming pieces) and improves the overall aesthetic of the finished knitwear. The selvage is never part of the main pattern or stitch design; it remains a transition stitch between the edge of the work and the main body of the fabric.
When to Use It
In knitting, the side edges (selvages) are often the trickiest areas to master. Without a proper selvage, edge stitches tend to stretch, curl, or look uneven. This is why knitters, from beginners to experts, use one or two selvage stitches per row.
When to use it: Consistently on projects knitted flat (scarves, sweaters, squares); it is less necessary for projects knit in the round, as there are no side edges to finish.
Why it’s useful: A well-executed selvage provides a stable border for seaming two pieces together without losing stitches, makes it easier to pick up stitches for a neckline or cuff, and creates a professional finish even without a specific border stitch.
Key Takeaways
- Simple placement: One to two stitches at the start and end of every row, worked differently than the main body of the project.
- Common techniques: Slipping the first stitch purlwise and knitting the last stitch normally, or working the edges in ribbing or a chain-stitch edge.
- Distinct from the pattern: The selvage is never included in the stitch count for the pattern or the main stitch; it is “extra.”
- Impact on finishing: Significantly reduces the risk of curling or overly stretchy edges.
- Customization: Some knitters omit the selvage for one or two rows before binding off to prevent the edge from becoming too thick.
Related Terms
Stitch The smallest unit of knitting. Each movement of the needle creates a stitch that stacks with others to form the fabric.
Row A complete horizontal line of stitches worked from one side of the project to the other, across the width.
Knitting Finishing The set of techniques applied at the end of a project (binding off, seaming, blocking) to complete the work neatly.
Knitting Border An optional finishing structure (ribbing, seed stitch, double border) applied after the main body to reinforce or decorate the edges.
Slip-stitch Edge (Chain edge) A selvage technique where the first stitch is slipped purlwise, creating a smooth, regular chain-like edge.
FAQ
How can I tell if I have a good selvage? A well-made selvage has a straight edge, with no curling or looping stitches. The side stitches should be vertically aligned and consistent in height.
Is a selvage absolutely necessary for every project? No. For projects knit in the round or small decorative pieces where the edge appearance doesn’t matter, you can omit it. However, it is essential for any piece that will be seamed, have a neckline added, or where the side edge will be visible.
What is the connection between the selvage and binding off? During the bind-off (casting off) process, the selvage helps you capture the final stitches cleanly. A poorly maintained selvage throughout the project can make the final bind-off difficult and result in an uneven top edge.